In Search of Xandú: Journey to Tenango

Tenango de Doria is an evergreen valley where indigenous languages such as Otomi and Nahuatl are still spoken. By Avelardo “Lalo” Valdez We arrive by car to Tulancingo, about one-and-half-hours from Mexico City. It’s a hectic drive. We’ve contended with hundreds of cars escaping the city for the weekend. We’d departed from Roma Sur and driven north on Avenida Insurgentes and through the hard-scrabble, working-class suburban municipality of Ecatepec, Estado de Mexico. In stark contrast to the casual bohemian opulence of Colonia Roma where we’d begun our journey, Ecatepec is impoverished and bleak. From where I’m sitting, it bears more than a passing resemblance to the favelas of Brazil. On the road, we also pass near the Tenochtitlán pyramids, every tourist’s favorite spot, before arriving at our destination. Tulancingo, Hidalgo (pop. 151,582) is a city serving the eastern rural area part of the state whose economy is largely based on agriculture with a mixtu...